Bali is magical. As probably the most famous island in
Indonesia, Bali blends spectacular mountain scenery and beautiful beaches with
warm and friendly people, a vibrant culture and out of this world resorts.
Bali is one of more than 17,000 islands in the Indonesian archipelago and is
located just over 2 kilometres (almost 1.5 miles) from the eastern
tip of the island of Javaand
west of the island of Lombok. The
island, home to about 4 million people, is approximately 144 kilometres
(90 mi.) from east to west and 80 kilometres (50 mi.) north to
south.
The word "paradise" is used a lot in Bali and
not without reason. The combination of friendly, hospitable people, a
magnificently visual culture infused with spirituality and (not least)
spectacular beaches with great surfing and diving have made Bali Indonesia's
unrivaled number one tourist attraction. Eighty percent of international
visitors to Indonesia visit Bali and Bali alone.
Travel & Leisure Magazine has awarded Bali the World’s
Best Island in 2009, while the Lonely Planet’s Best of Travel 2010 ranked Bali
second place among the world’s Top Regions.
Also known as the Land of the Gods, Bali appeals through its
sheer natural beauty of looming volcanoes and lush terraced rice fields that
exude peace and serenity. Bali enchants with its dramatic dances and colourful
ceremonies, its arts and crafts, to its luxurious beach resorts and exciting
night life. For this exotic island has much to offer, from inspirational
spirituality to fine dining and meeting experiences, from world class surfing
and diving to exhilarating treks in the wild. And everywhere you will find
intricately carved temples.
For, the Balinese, who embrace the Hindu religion, are a
most devout people where a large part of their lives is dedicated to rites and
ceremonies aimed at maintaining harmony in this world. Indeed, this
relatively small island holds many surprises.
This is a miraculous island indeed, for after decades of
popularity, Bali continues to amaze both local and international visitors
alike. Here gather a variety of visitors from around the globe: from
those who come to surf the waves of Kuta, Uluwatu and Dreamland, to others who
love the panoramic beauty of mountains and lakes at Batur, Kintamani,
or Lake Beratan at Bedugul, to those who merely love shopping or
spend endless days on the beach.
Cities
Denpasar is a bustling, multi-cultural city and although it can seem a
little intimidating the first time you visit, just do not believe those travel
guides which say it has nothing to offer.
Denpasar is bristling with temples, palaces and museums and its occupants
are outstandingly friendly. You will be off the beaten tourist track here, so
bring lots of time for a chat with the locals and a decent map of town. You can
see many of the main sights comfortably on foot.
This is also a notable shopping city with options to please even the most
jaded of world shoppers.
Denpasar is the seat of government in Bali and is therefore home to the
provincial governor's office as well as the administration of the Regency of
Badung.
Candidasa
The stretch of coastline from Manggis through Candidasa town itself and east
to Bugbug, is normally
just referred to as Candidasa.
This is a laid back area of Bali with a wide range of
accommodation options. Heavy traffic runs through the town, so you'd need to
head to the beach facing resorts/hotels if you want to escape the traffic. The
black sand beaches are very narrow and often disappear altogether at high tide.
Kuta
Kuta is the best known tourist resort area on the island of Bali in Indonesia and
has a great surfing beach. With a long broad Indian Ocean beach-front, Kuta was
originally discovered by tourists as a surfing paradise.
It has long been a popular stop on the classic backpacking route in South
East Asia. Back in the 1980s they used to talk about the three Ks: Katmandu in Nepal, Khao San Road in
Bangkok and Kuta. Today Kuta still attracts some hardcore backpackers as well
as families and tourists from all over the world, and is most notably a
playground for young visitors from Australia.
Due to the ever increasing popularity of Bali, Kuta is continually
developing, and is not short of unsightly, poorly planned buildings. It can
come across at times to be chaotic, overcrowded and congested. However, amongst
all the mayhem this place somehow works, and hundreds of thousands of visitors
enjoy their time in Kuta every year.
Infrastructure has come a long way in Kuta, although it is still
insufficient for the amount of visitors who stay in the area. Some side alleys
still have significant potholes and road rules still don't mean very much. Most
roads are constantly busy with motor scooters, metered taxis and private cars.
Instead of using signals, locals and the seasoned travellers honk their motor
vehicles to signal overtaking or squeezing into a tight spot near you. Often
cars fold in their side mirrors when negotiating narrow single lanes with
parked vehicles. Now you can access free Wi-Fi in local convenience stores,
restaurants, cafes and hotels. There are half a dozen prepaid mobile phone SIM
cards available everywhere with competitive top up plans. Touts will
persistently try to get you to buy something from them, whether you're walking
on the streets or seated in a restaurant.
The five km long sandy stretch of Kuta is arguably the best beach front in
Bali. The beach is safe, partially clean, well-maintained, although the beach
vendors remain annoying pushing massages, hair braiding, cigarettes and surf
boards. The long wide stretch of sand is often full of sunbathers and although
most of the serious surfers have moved on to newer pastures, there are still
plenty of surf dudes around at most times of the year, and especially so during
peak season. As you move north along the beach to first Legian and then Seminyak and Petitenget it becomes progressively quieter
and less frenetic.
The area of south Kuta closest to the airport is more correctly known
as Tuban, but this name is rarely used.
Once the sun goes down, Kuta is the rough and ready party zone of Bali,
even after the tragic events of 2002. Even the most hardened of party animal
will find something to please them on Jalan Legian at night.
Jimbaran
Jimbaran is just south of the airport and Kuta.
This was formerly a real backwater of south Bali, just a tiny fishing village
with a daily market. That all started to change in the 1980s and Jimbaran is
now home to several world class 5 star beach resorts, plus a few more moderate
mid-market hotels. There is however little in the way of budget accommodation
and there are also many high-end villas in this area, particularly on the
ridges of high ground above Jimbaran Bay. This has resulted in monikers such as
the "Beverly Hills of Bali" or "Millionaire's Row".
The bay itself has a pleasant white sand beach and is
very safe for swimming. The three clusters of grilled seafood restaurants on
the beach are a major tourist draw in the evenings, as is the truly stunning
sunset.
Jimbaran is also home to a Norwegian University, Gateway
College, with around 500 students studying athletics, philosphy, culture,
economics and journalism. The school is located in Kedonganan close to Sari
Segara Resort and in Jl, Bantas Kau where it also has a small cafe.
Jimbaran has an increasing number of rather chic shops
but there is little or no nightlife here. It has the advantage of being a
little closer to Kuta and Seminyak and the cultural
highlights of Central
Bali.
Legian
Stretching north from Kuta, Legian offers the same easy access to shops and bars but a
slightly more relaxed and less chaotic feeling. It is a low-key area where you
can still get the low prices of Kuta without some of the hassle. The northern
area of Legian bordering Seminyak offers a bit of an escape from the crowds and is also a
popular surf beach.
Lovina
Lovina is a relatively new name coined in the 1950s by
the late king of Buleleng (Buleleng Regency) Anak Agung Panji
Tisna, with a good eye for future tourism-based development. It started with
small lodge built on his own land and named Lovina.
After going through struggle of ups and downs, finally the community accepted
the presence of Lovina. Nowadays the name Lovina is used for the stretch of
seven traditional villages, which all slightly merge into one over ten
kilometersof the main road which hugs the north coast to the west of Singaraja:
Temukus, Kalibukbuk, Anturan, Pemaron, Tukad Mungga, Banyualit and Kaliasem. Kalibukuk is the main hub of this area and is
often thought of "Lovina town centre".
If traveling along the main coast road from Singaraja,
you turn towards the Lovina coast at the only set of traffic
lights on the entire north road. Impressive Balinese gates frame the entrances
to the two roads where most of the restaurants and hotels are. Western style
minimarts and ATMs are located on the busy main road. Lovina offers very
reasonably priced accommodation from no star home stays to about three star
resorts with pools. Posh private villas are tucked away all along the coast
too. Food is cheaper than Ubud or the south coast by about a third.
The whole stretch of coastline in the north is fringed by
quite narrow black sand beaches, which are accessed by a multitude of small
lanes which run perpendicular to the east-west coast road. The beaches are
generally safe for swimming, and the waters of Bali's north coast, in direct
contrast to the crashing surf of the south, are relatively calm. From a
distance, the water does not look too clean due to the colour of the sand but
it is in fact almost always crystal clear. The locals do make an attempt to
clear away plastic flotsam too.
Diving, snorkelling fishing dolphin watching, diving on coral
reefs are the main
activities, but perhaps above all else, this is an area in which to relax and
take in a very slow, traditional pace of life. Lovina is ideal for family
groups with young children or older adventurers who want to kick back and quickly
become part of the community. It can get a little crowded in July and August,
but outside that peak season, this is a quiet part of the island.
Lovina also
has a large number of tourist stalls which are limited to the area of beach
between the dolphin statue and the main restaurant road. The stall holders are
not as aggresive as those in other parts of Bali. Open air bars often provide
loud, live music in which patrons can participate and it's not unusual to see
foreigners jamming with locals. Many foreigners have made this locality home
and the place gets busy at sundown when both locals and foreigners come down to
the beach for 'happy hour' and a good meal. There is a nightly game of beach
volleyball happening in the car park in front of the main bars too.
Padang Bai
Most visitors to Padang Bai are there to catch a boat to Lombok and sadly miss out on
a charming little place in its own right. People who do give it a chance often
cancel their trip in order to spend more time in this lovely village. Spending
a night or two here will certainly not be time wasted.
There is good diving and snorkeling in the immediate
area, and a number of operators are present to cater for those activities. This
is also a fairly convenient base from which to explore some of the wider
attractions of East Bali.
Accommodation tends to be quite basic and aimed at the backpacker market, but
there are more upmarket options in town.
It's a great place to relax, enjoy the beach and eat
fish!
Sanur
Sanur is Bali's oldest upscale resort area and is a
mature beach-side town. Despite the abundance of restaurants and accommodation,
it has a quiet and relaxed feel to it. In general terms, it is more expensive
than Kuta but cheaper than Seminyak.
Sanur tends to appeal most to middle-aged and older families, especially
Europeans.
The Sanur area is sandwiched between the main Jalan
Ngurah Rai bypass and the beach. One main route called Jalan Danau Tamblingan
runs north to south through the town and it is easy to orient yourself with
reference to this road.
Seminyak
The next town north of Legian,
Seminyak is more upmarket with mostly luxury accommodation and fashionable
high-end restaurants and bars. The atmosphere is much more sophisticated and
laid-back than Kuta, and
the beach in particular is quieter during the day. Seminyak is also the high
end spa and boutique shopping capital of Bali. Nowhere is the upscaling of Bali
in recent years more obvious than here.
It is hard to imagine that only ten years ago this was a
distinctly separate village, and something of a backwater. Development has occurred
at an astonishing pace, and as well as absorbing all green space which formerly
separated Seminyak from Legian, it is now almost impossible to determine where
Seminyak ends and the nearby villages of Petitenget, Umalas and Kerobokan begin. This certainly has its
downside, and the whole district has become very congested.
Update for 2013 New roadworks have been completed and
traffic has been reduced by as much as 50% from south to north. 3pm to 6pm is
still a time you need to avoid traveling.
Ubud
Ubud, a
town in central Bali, is far removed from the beach party scene in Kuta, and is regarded as the cultural centre of Bali. It is
famous as an arts and crafts hub, and much of the town and nearby villages
seems to consist of artists' workshops and galleries. There are some remarkable
architectural and other sights to be found, and a general feeling of well being
to be enjoyed, all thanks to the spirit, surroundings, and climate of the
place.
Attractions
Amed
Amed refers to a long stretch of coast running from the village of Culik
about 14 km eastwards incorporating the seven villages of Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah,Selang, Banyuning and Aas.
The pace of life here is slow and the coastal scenery quite stunning making
Amed the perfect place for a relaxed holiday in Bali.
Amed is the most recent tourist development area in Bali. It was only in
2000 that tarmac was laid on the roads. Telephone lines were installed in 2003
and it took until 2007 for a bridge to be built over a section of the main road
that regularly washed away during the rainy season.
This is the most commonly used base for visitors wishing to dive the USS
Liberty wreck atTulamben and that area is also covered by
this article. There are
other good dive sites close at hand and a thriving dive industry has developed
all the way along the coast here.
Amed's inhabitants live from fishing, salt-making and tourism. The lack of
tourism-based revenue, its remote nature and the generally harsh environment
for farming, meant that this area was very much one of the poorer areas in
Bali. Amongst others, the East Bali Poverty Project [1] drew attention to the plight of the local villagers in this area and
that, together with recent tourist development, has gone a long way to
improving general standards of living, health and education.
Bedugul
Bedugul is the name used to cover a large area of the
central highlands of Bali around the villages of Bedugul itself, Candikuning, Pancasari, Pacung andWanagiri (amongst others). This is an area of
great natural beauty. The focus point of the area centres on the three crater
lakes of Bratan (Beratan), Buyan andTamblingan, and the nearby
botanical gardens. The whole area is at an altitude of 700 metres or more, with
the tallest mountain peaks above 2,000 metres, and it can be distinctly chilly
here.
This article covers the Bedugul area as well as the
village of Munduk to the west, and areas between Bedugul
and Mount Batukaru to the south west. Mount Batukaru itself is covered in the Tabanan article.
Bukit Peninsula
This is a large limestone peninsula which, bar a sliver
of land just south of the airport, would be a separate island. It is rugged and
dry, and pre-tourist development this was a real backwater of Bali.
The Bukit (as it is commonly referred to) includes the
famous cliff-hanging temple at Uluwatu,
a number of Bali's very best beaches including Balangan, and the top surfing
spots on the island. As is so often the case, it was intrepid surfers who
really opened up the eyes of the world to this part of the island.
The two main towns with strong local communities on the
Bukit are Pecatu and Ungasan.
Kintanami
The area of north-eastern Bali at the Mount Batur
caldera, and which encompasses Penelokan, Toya Bungkah, Batur, Kedisan, Abung, Songan and Kintamanivillages,
is known widely as just Kintamani. Kintamani, Batur and Penelokan villages sit
on the rim of the huge Batur caldera about 1,500m above sea level, and offer
dramatic views of the active volcano Mount
Batur and serene Lake Batur. Toyo Bungkah village
is down at the lake edge.
As well as the lake and the volcano, Kintamani is home to Pura Ulun Danu Batur, one of
Bali's key nine directional temples.
A note from C.Bali (see: Other things to do in this area)
The people of this area are very traditional Balinese, please show the upmost
respect to the people by not walking on their farm lands, entering their
temples (unless you wish to pray). Woman should cover their legs to the knees.
The people of this area are warm and friendly when visitors to this amazing
area show them respect.
Mount Agung
Towering 3,033 metres above sea level, Mount Agung is the
highest mountain on the island of Bali and the fifth highest volcano in the
whole of Indonesia.
Mount Agung has huge spiritual significance to the people
of the island, and is home to the 'Mother Temple' of Besakih. It
forms part of a chain of volcanos that make up the back bone of Bali.
Balinese legend has it that Agung was created when the
Hindu God Pasupati split Mount Meru (the spiritual axis of the universe) and
formed Mount Agung with a fragment.
Nusa Dua
The place name Nusa Dua can be used in two ways: either
it can refer to the entire eastern side of the Bukit Peninsula at the southern
tip of Bali, or it can refer to the purpose-built, safe and rather sterile
tourist enclave (Kawasan Pariwisata, quite literally Tourism District) at the
southeast side of this peninsula.
This article covers everything in the Nusa Dua enclave
plus the Tanjung Benoa peninsula and a few points west of the enclave to the
village of Sawangan. Everything on the Bukit Penisula to the west of Sawangan
is covered by the Uluwatu article.
As well as a host of luxury hotels, Nusa Dua is home to
the most popular golf course in Bali and the main convention centre on the
island.
The beaches here are glorious - white sand, deep, long
and safe for swimming. The public beach at Geger is the best to head to if you
are not staying at Nusa Dua. This is also home to one of the best museums in
Bali. The museum is nearly always empty.
The Nusa Dua enclave has three manned gates and everyone
entering is subject to a security search. This can have a slightly
claustrophobic effect according to some points of view, and in other points of
view makes guests feel more secure. While some may criticize this for creating
the sense of an "artificial location", given the prior acts of
terrorism in Bali some guests do appreciate the fact that security checks are
made to enhance their safety.
Nusa Lembongan
Nusa Lembongan is a small island off the southeast coast of the main island
of Bali. Quickly becoming one of Bali's most popular attractions,
this island paradise is a world away from the hassle and hectic pace of South Bali. Neither hawkers nor
traffic mar the magnificent scenery; this is a fine place to just put your feet
up and relax. Main activities include surfing, diving and snorkelling. The
water is some of the clearest you will find anywhere, and a vivid aqua blue in
colour.
Nusa Penida
Totalling some 200 square kilometres, Nusa Penida is much
larger than the better known Nusa
Lembongan. However, tourist infrastructure is verylimited here. It is,
though, an island of stunning natural rugged beauty, and tourism-related
development plans have been rumoured and mooted to no effect for many years
now.
Due to a lack of natural fresh water, little is grown or
produced on Nusa Penida, and even some basic foodstuffs come in by boat.
Visitors should therefore expect higher prices than in Bali, and not bank on
any tourism-related luxury items being available for purchase here. Plan
accordingly — this is as off-the-beaten-track as you can get and still be in
the Province of Bali.
Nusa Penida has also become an unofficial bird sanctuary
for endangered Balinese and Indonesian bird species, including the critically
endangered Bali Starling (Leucopsar
rothschildi). In 2004 theFriends of the National Park Foundation
(FNPF) started
an introduction program onto Nusa Penida of the near-extinct Bali Starling.
Over 2 years from 2006, 64 birds were released into the wild. By the spring of
2009, 58 chicks had successfully hatched in the wild and in 2010 there were
estimated to be over 100 birds. Despite many similar release bird projects in
the West Bali National Park that have failed
because of poachers, this has been by the far the most successful project to
prevent the Bali Starling from becoming extinct and is because the Nusa Penida
population actively protects the birds. In 2006 all villages unanimously passed
a local regulation making it an offence to steal or threaten the life of the
birds.
West Bali National Park
West Bali National Park (Taman Nasional Bali Barat in Bahasa Indonesia) is the most
north-westerly point of Bali. It includes the whole of the Prapat Agung Peninsula, and
large swathes of land around the towns of Gilimanuk, Cekik and Banyuwedang.
The official area inside the park boundaries is 190 square kilometres, with a
further 580 square kilometres of protected reserve in the highlands to the
east. In total this accounts for some ten percent of Bali's total land area.
Culture
Unlike any other island in largely Muslim Indonesia, Bali
is a pocket of Hindu religion and culture. Every aspect of
Balinese life is suffused with religion, but the most visible signs are the
tiny offerings (canang sari, or sesajen) found in every
Balinese house, work place, restaurant, souvenir stall and airport check-in
desk. These leaf trays are made daily and can contain an enormous range of
offering items: flowers, glutinous rice, cookies, salt, and even cigarettes and
coffee! They are set out with burning incense sticks and sprinkled with holy
water no less than three times a day, before every meal. Don't worry if you
step on one, as they are placed on the ground for this very purpose and will be
swept away anyway (But you better not step on one on purpose, because - as
Balinese believe - it'll give you bad luck!).
Balinese Hinduism diverged from the mainstream well over
500 years ago and is quite radically different from what you would see in India. The
primary deity is Sanghyang
Widi Wasa (Acintya), the
"all-in-one god" for which other gods like Vishnu (Wisnu) and
Shiva (Civa) are merely manifestations, and instead of being shown
directly, he is depicted by an empty throne wrapped in the distinctive poleng black-and-white chessboard pattern and
protected by a ceremonial tedung umbrella.
The Balinese are master sculptors,
and temples and courtyards are replete with statues of gods and goddesses like Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice
and fertility, as well as guardians and protecting demons like toothy Rakasa, armed with a club.
These days, though, entire villages like Batubulan have twigged onto the
tourist potential and churn out everything imaginable from Buddhas to couples
entwined in acrobatic poses for the export market.
Balinese dance and music are also justly famous and a major
attraction for visitors to the island. As on neighbouring Java, thegamelan orchestra and wayang kulit shadow puppet theatre predominate.
Dances are extremely visual and dramatic, and the most famous include:
Barong or
"lion dance" — a ritual dance depicting the fight between good and
evil, with performers wearing fearsome lion-like masks. This dance is often
staged specifically for tourists as it is one of the most visually spectacular
and the storyline is relatively easy to follow. Barong dance performances are
not hard to find.
Calonarang — a
spectacular dance which is a tale of combating dark magic and exorcising the
evil spirits aligned with the witch-queen Rangda. The story has many variations
and rarely are two calonarang plays the same. If you can find an authentic
Calonarang performance, then you are in for a truly magical experience.
Kecak or
"monkey dance" — actually invented in the 1930s by resident German
artist Walter Spies for a movie but a spectacle nonetheless, with up to 250
dancers in concentric circles chanting "kecak kecak", while a
performer in the centre acts out a spiritual dance. An especially popular Kecak
dance performance is staged daily at Uluwatu Temple.
Legong Keraton — perhaps the most
famous and feted of all Balinese dances. Performed by young girls, this is a
dance of divine nymphs hailing from 12th century Java. Try to find an authentic
Legong Keraton with a full-length performance. The short dance performances
often found in tourist restaurants and hotels are usually extracts from the
Legong Keraton.
Festivals
There are an estimated 20,000 temples (pura) on the island, each of
which holds festivals (odalan) at least twice yearly. With many other
auspicious days throughout the year there are always festivities going on.
The large island-wide festivals are determined by two local calendars. The
210 day wuku orPawukon calendar is completely out
of sync with the western calendar, meaning that it rotates wildly throughout
the year. The lunar saka (caka) calendar roughly
follows the western year.
Funerals (pitra yadnya) are another occasion of
pomp and ceremony, when the deceased (often several at a time) are ritually
cremated in extravagantly colorful rituals (ngaben).
Galungan is a 10 day festival which comes around every
210 days and celebrates the death of the tyrant Mayadenawa. Gods and ancestors
visit earth and are greeted with gift-laden bamboo poles called penjor lining
the streets. The last day of the festival is known asKuningan.
Nyepi, or the Hindu New Year, also known as the day of absolute
silence, is usually in March or April (next on March 21, 2015). If you are in
Bali in the days preceding Nyepi, you will see amazing colorful giants (ogoh
ogoh) being created by every banjar. On the eve of Nyepi,
the ogoh ogoh are paraded through the streets, an amazing
sight which is not to be missed. There are good reasons to avoid Nyepi as well,
but for many visitors these will be outweighed by the privilege of experiencing
such a unique festival. On Nyepi absolutely everything on the island is shut
down between 6AM on the day of the new year and 6AM the following morning.
Tourists are confined to their hotels and asked to be as quiet as possible for
the day. After dark, light must be kept to a bare minimum. No one is allowed
onto the beaches or streets. The only exceptions granted are for real emergency
cases. The airport remains closed for the entire day, which means no flights
into or out of Bali for 24 hr. Ferry harbours are closed as well. As the
precise date of Nyepi changes every year, and isn’t finally set until later in
the year before, flights will be booked by airlines for this day in case you
book early. When the date is set, and as it gets closer, the airlines will
alter their bookings accordingly. This may mean that you have to alter your
accommodation bookings if your flight has been bought forward or back to cater
for Nyepi day.
All national public holidays in Indonesia apply
in Bali, although Ramadan is naturally a much smaller event here than in the
country's Muslim regions.
Entry
Most international visitors will fly to Bali directly.
Flights
* Numerous direct flights from Europe, America, Australia
and most Asian Countries.
* Domestic flights to and from major cities within Indonesia.
Sea
* Regular passenger ferries from Java and Lombok.
* Cruise ship stop-offs.
Overland
* By car or bus from Java.
Get From Air Port
In terms of transportation from the airport, Ngurah Rai
is not too bad, but is also far from being perfect. Some hotels organise free
transfers from the airport, but plenty of public taxis are also available: go
to the ticketing booth. Just after you xray your bag, you'll enter a concourse.
You can go left or right and all the waiting hotel drivers will on the other
side of a wall from you. Head left and the (tiny) ticketing booth will be on
your right, just before the air-conditioned duty free area. Here you can buy a
fixed-fare ticket and a driver will be assigned to you trouble-free. However,
the ticketing booth closes after the last flight arrival for the day and
re-opens at 8 am, so anyone wanting an airport taxi during this period should
be prepared to haggle or seek the alternatives described below. Beware being
overcharged by the staff behind the counter, citing reasons such as new rates.
This commonly happens to travelers who appear new to Bali and unsure of the
pricing, and can be as much as 100% more. It is best to determine your
destination's locality and prepare the exact amount for a trip to that area. At
the counter, hand that amount over while confidently stating your destination.
If necessary, mention the pricing on the board behind the counter to reinforce
the amount you give. Note that the price is per car, not per person.
If you are travelling on a restricted budget, you can
flag down a Blue Bird Taxi from outside the airport gate (3-5 minutes walk from
both terminals). Blue Bird Taxis are safe and reliable, and their metered fares
are somewhat cheaper than the prepaid taxi fares. Depending on how much baggage
you have and how bulky it is, you might want to evaluate whether all that extra
effort is worth it to save a few dollars. Metered ride to Kuta, for example,
would generally cost Rp 20,000 to 30,000.
If you do make the effort to walk outside the airport to
the street, you can also flag down a bemo(local
minivan). Most of the bemos in this area will be heading to Kuta (road to Kuta heads to
the left if looking out from the airport gate), but don't absolutely bank on
it, and be prepared for a hot, crowded journey. It should cost no more than a
few thousand rupiah per person (ask the driver beforehand).
There's also an air conditioned bus service called Trans
Sarbagita that runs following route Term. Batu Bulan (Gianyar) - Tohpati (DPS)
- Sanur (DPS) - Kuta Central Park (Badung) - Jimbaran (Badung) - Nusa Dua
(Badung), occassionally the bus heading to and from Nusa Dua will stop at the
airport. There is no marked Trans Sarbagita bus stop at the airport. Bus stops
at the roundabout at the left side from the airport exit. The bus fare is 3.500
RP for adults and 2.500 for students.
By Bus
There are direct bus services to Bali
from all major cities on Java and Lombok that link with ferries for sea crossings. These are cheap and
easy, but slow.
By boat
Ferries cross from Ketapang on the
island of Java to Gilimanuk in
western Bali every 15 min, 24 hr every day. These are very cheap, and the
crossing takes just 30 min (plus sometimes considerable waiting around for
loading and unloading).
A number of speedboats, catamarans and day cruises operate into Benoa
Harbour near Kuta (~2
hr) and Padangbai (80
min) from Nusa Lembongan and the Gili Islands of Lombok. These are convenient for some travellers but are
frequently priced much higher than the equivalent air crossing. Crossing times
are subject to weather and other operational conditions and trip times can
longer than those publicised.
Caution should be used in selecting a suitable operator and craft for
a fast boat crossing to Lombok or Nusa Lembongan. Some of
the operators on these routes use inappropriate equipment and have inadequate
levels of crew training, personnel and safety equipment. The Lombok Strait fast
boat crossing can be subject to inclement weather and equipment breakdowns.
Boarding an overloaded craft or departing in adverse weather conditions may
lead to serious disappointment. Currently there are no operators offering craft
suitable for open water all-weather crossings. Rather they are operating light
duty hulled craft of fibreglass or aluminium construction powered by outboard
petrol engines. One of the current operators plans to introduce a more suitably
specified and equipped craft sometime in the 1st or 2nd quarter of 2011. The
new boat will be powered by diesel inboard engines and have a more robust hull
construction appropriate to open water use. A previous craft of similar
specification was withdrawn from this route as operations could not be
sustained in competition with the lower cost base alternatives. Two of the
light duty craft have already sunk whilst carrying passengers, fortunately they
had not yet entered open waters at the time, fortunately nearby assistance was
available and there were no fatalities.
There are also public ferries from Lembar, Lombok, to Padang Bai every
few hours, with the trip taking around 3 to 4 hours. This service has a notable
safety, operational and equipment standards issues, some ferries are better
than others, or worse depending upon your perspective. Delays are commonplace
due to loading and unloading issues and services may be cancelled or postponed
during periods of inclement weather. It may be prudent to avoid sea crossings
during the monsoonal period when sea conditions may lead to deteriorated
comfort levels or a dangerous crossing.
See the Nusa Lembongan, Gili Islands and Lombok articles for full details concerning travelling
and arriving in Lembongan, Lombok and it's nearby islands.
Cruise ships occasionally stop so that passengers can tour or shop. Some
ships still anchor off-shore toward the southeast side of the island and tender
guests to shore. Modest-sized ships can choose to dock at the port of Benoa not
far from Denpasar, Kuta and Sanur. The dock
area is basically industrial, with few amenities and no ATMs, but masses of
taxis are usually ready to whisk you to nearby destinations at a moderate cost.
Get Around
Bali is a fairly large island and you will need a method to get around if
you plan on exploring more than the hotel pool. Rapid, seemingly uncontrolled
development and an aging infrastructure, mean that the roads struggle to cope.
In major tourist areas the traffic is chaotic, and there are daily jams.
Particular blackspots are Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak and Denpasar.
For different excursions around the island, it is common to join a tour via
your hotel or at one of the many street agencies which are found everywhere in
booths normally marked "Tourist Information".
Once you arrive at your destination you may encounter difficult walking
conditions as sidewalks in most parts of Bali are simply the covered tops of
storm-water drains and in many places only 60cm (2 ft) wide. This makes for
uncomfortable single-file walking next to traffic. Often sidewalks are blocked
by a motorbike or a caved-in section, necessitating dangerous darting into
traffic. Many of the island's conventional streets are simply not
pedestrian-friendly. Beach areas and major tourist areas are easier to walk
around and Sanur in particular has a wide beachfront pathway with many cafes
and bars. But although the walking conditions are difficult, they are by no
means impossible. Lots of tourists and locals travel the roads by foot and even
the traffic is generally very accommodating to pedestrians if it is given time
to react.
By Bus
The Perama bus company serves the budget traveller well
in Bali and beyond, and they have offices in several major tourist destinations
on the island.
There are other scheduled shuttle buses between many of Bali's most popular
destinations, and these are cheap and reliable. Check locally advertised
services (you cannot miss them) and book one day in advance.
A new Trans Sarbagita government bus service operates on Bali since August
2011 . The buses are comfortable, air-conditioned (similar to Transjakarta
Busway but even more spacious), and the fare is only Rp 3,500. These buses stop
only at permanent elevated bus stops built on the road curb. As of June 2012,
only Route 2 was operating (Route 1 and Route 3 are planned to be open soon).
The buses serving Route 2 start from Batubulan bemo terminal, go via Jalan
Bypass Ngurah Rai (stopping in Sanur on the way) and Dewa Ruci statue (Kuta roundabout, also known as
Simpang Siur roundabout) to Central Parkir Kuta (near Giant supermarket on
Jalan Raya Kuta, a kilometer or so inland from the main tourist areas of Kuta), make a loop via Sunset Road back to Kuta roundabout, and go south all
the way to Nusa Dua, then go
back. For visitors, the main advantage is there's no need now to change bemos
and to deal with 2-3 bemo drivers to get to Batubulan terminal (from where
direct bemos to Ubud, Kintamani and
other north and north-eastern destinations are available) or to Sanur. Those
going to Nusa Dua or Benoa may
find the southern part of the route useful. The bus stop nearest to the airport
is Central Parkir Kuta, a Blue Bird taxi caught outside of the airport gate
will cost you around Rp 25,000. If boarding at Central Parkir Kuta, beware that
both southbound (Nusa Dua) and northbound (Batubulan) buses seem to use the
same stop - if no signs on the bus, ask the conductor or other people waiting
for the bus.
By taxi
Metered taxis are very common in southern Bali as far
north as Denpasar but few and far
between elsewhere. The starting flagfall charge is Rp 7,000 for the first two
kilometres and the meter ticks up Rp 7,000 per km after that. Waiting time is
charged at Rp 30,000 per hour. Trips outside southern Bali will incur an extra
charge of 30%, as the driver has to go back empty.
By far the largest and most reliable taxi company is Bali Taksi/Blue Bird; they have
a telephone call service +62 361 701111 for both instant taxis and for advance
bookings. If you are hailing a taxi on the street, Bali Taksi cars are sky blue
with a white top light. The cars are modern and the drivers well-informed with
a decent level of English-language ability. There are several other reliable
taxi companies but these are not always easy to identify. If entering a taxi
with no working meter, you can negotiate a price if you know how to bargain.
Alternatively, always insist on the meter being turned on, and leave the taxi
if that request is not met. Due to the traffic, the taxis may refuse to use the
meter in traffic jams, and you need to negotiate a price. Expect to pay around
Rp 7000 to travel from Kuta to Legian.
If day-tripping, it is often cheaper and more convenient
to arrange for your taxi to wait and take you back.
By Bemo
Bemos are minivans which serve as a
flexible bus service (also known as "Shuttle Bus") and are Bali's
"traditional" form of transportation. However they have largely given
way to metered taxis in the south. Fares on shared bemos can be very cheap, but
drivers will often insist that foreign tourists charter the entire vehicle, in
which case they will usually ask for a price equivalent to a taxi or even more.
By self-drive car or
motorbike
Driving in Bali is on the left-hand side. Car and motorbike rentals are
widely available but you should think very carefully about your ability to
handle driving in Bali with its lack of formal traffic rules. Consider hiring a
car and driver as you can relax, be safe and not get lost. If you rent a car to
drive yourself, a modern four door Toyota Avanza or Daihatsu Xenia should cost
Rp 200,000-250,000 per day. If on a tighter budget, you should be able to get
an old, rough Suzuki Jimny from about Rp 90,000 to 110,000 per day.
Renting motorcycles or scooters can be a frightening yet fascinating
experience. They are typically 125cc, some with automatic transmissions, and
rent for between Rp 40,000 and 100,000 per day (for a week or more, cheaper
price can be bargained). In areas outside of the tourist enclaves of south
Bali, a motorbike is a wonderful way to see the island, but in south Bali, with
its crush of traffic, the chances of an accident are greatly increased. Bali is
no place to learn to ride a motorbike.
An International Driving Permit (IDP) is required for vehicle rental, with
a motorcycle endorsement if renting a motorbike. The IDP is seldom requested by
the person renting you the vehicle but will be required (along with the
vehicle's registration papers) if stopped by the police (typically a Rp 50,000
"fine" will allow you to keep driving and if they ask more write his
name down to stop it). An IDP is easily available from motoring clubs in your
home country (e.g., AAA and the American Automobile Touring Alliance in the
United States provides them for around US$15) and it is valid for one year.
Note :
Driving in Bali requires an International Driving Permit (IDP), plus your
own home country of residence Drivers Licence Both these documents must
correctly match the type and class of vehicle being driven or they are invalid.
Both must be carried and are often required to be presented in roadside police
stops. This requirement is actively enforced by the police throughout Bali. If
riding a motorbike then a full motor bike endorsement appropriate to that class
of motorbike is required on both the IDP and the home country issued drivers
licence. Do not under any circumstances ride a motorbike or drive a car without
a proper licence. A car licence alone is not sufficient to ride a motorbike;
the licence must clearly permit you to ride a motorbike in the country of issue
and the appropriate section of the IDP must be endorsed as well. Insurance is
not provided by the motorbike renters so you are responsible for any damage. If
you do hit a local person, either on foot, on motorcycle, or in a car, you can
expect to pay a very large sum of money to make restitution. Street signs are
infrequent and ambiguous. If you are not familiar with the road system and
comfortable riding a motorbike at home then this may be ill advised and
dangerous to learn. Thoroughly check your travel insurance policy to ensure
that your cover is still in place whilst operating or riding upon a motor bike
or scooter or driving a car.
Helmets and headlights
Riding a motorbike without a helmet is illegal throughout Indonesia and that
requirement is frequently enforced by the local police in Bali. Reasonably
priced helmets can be purchased in Denpasar but a renter should supply a
suitable helmet/s with the motorbike.
The road traffic regulations were amended in 2009 to require the
illumination of head lamp and rear lamp on a motorbike during daylight hours.
Police in Bali have initiated a long running information campaign to road users
informing them of the requirement. Signs have been placed upon roadways
advising of the regulations and the intention to enforce them. These signs are
only provided in Bahasa Indonesian. This is a safety initiative and means that
lights must be on at all times when riding a motorbike on any roadway in Bali.
Despite the apparent disregard by local road users the use of turn signals is
also required.
By bicycle
Travel by bicycle is quite possible and
provides a very different experience than other means of transport. You should
bring your own touring bike, or buy locally—there is at least one well stocked
bike shop in Denpasar, but with a racing/mountain bike focus. Bicycles are also
widely available for rent and some of the better hotels will even provide them
free of charge. While traffic conditions may appear challenging at first, you
will acclimatise after a few days, especially once you escape the chaotic heavy
traffic of southern Bali.
Cuisine
Balinese Food
Like the food of other
regions in Indonesia, Balinese food is rice as the central dish served with
small portions of spicy, pungent vegetables, fish or meat and served almost
always with sambal or chili paste. Bali is a few of the regions in Indonesia
whose majority of its people are non Muslims, thus babi guling or roasted
suckling pig is a specialty, as is bebek betutu, smoked stuffed duck wrapped in
bamboo leaves.
Babi guling — roast suckling pig. A large ceremonial dish
served with rice that is usually ordered several days in advance, but also
often available at night market stalls and selected restaurants. A very notable
outlet for babi guling is Ibu Oka's in Ubud. A pilgrimage that needs to be made by many, thanks to Anthony Bourdain,
but the numerous stalls around the island also offer an equally delightful
experience for half the price of Ibu Oka's.
Bebek betutu — literally "darkened duck", topped
with a herb paste and roasted in banana leaves over charcoal. The same method
can also be used for chicken, resulting in ayam betutu.
Lawar — covers a range of Balinese salads, usually involving thinly chopped
vegetables, minced meat, coconut and spices. Traditionally, blood is mixed into
this dish but it is often omitted for the more delicate constitutions of
visitors. Green beans and chicken are a particularly common combination.
Sate lilit — minced seafood satay, served wrapped around a
twig of lemongrass.
Urutan — Balinese spicy sausage, made from pork.
Other Food
Bali has a huge variety of cafes and restaurants, serving both Indonesian
and international food (see Indonesia for a
menu reader). For better or worse, some American chains have established a
presence here, although almost exclusively confined to the southern tourist
areas. You will see KFC, McDonald's, Pizza Hut and Starbucks. Interestingly,
the menus are often highly adapted to the local tastes. The menu at Pizza Hut
looks nothing like one you find in western countries.
Try the smaller local restaurants rather than touristy ones; the food is
better and cheaper. Be sure to try the ubiquitous Indonesian dishes nasi
goreng (fried rice), nasi campur (pronounced nasi
champur, steamed rice with various vegetables and meats), and mie
goreng (fried noodles). These dishes should rarely cost more than Rp
25,000 and are often considerably cheaper.
Some of the most authentic food can be found from roving vendors
called kaki lima, which literally means "five legs". This
comprises the three legs of the food cart and the vendor's own two legs. Go to
the beaches of Kuta, Legian and Seminyak at sunset and find steaming hot bakso(pronounced
ba-so), a delightful meatball and noodle soup, served up fresh for a very
inexpensive Rp 5,000. You can season it yourself but be forewarned: Indonesian
spices can be ferociously hot. Go easy until you find your heat tolerance
level!
Padang restaurants are a good choice for both the budget-conscious
and those visitors wishing to experience authentic Indonesian (but not
Balinese) cuisine. These are usually marked with a prominentmasakan padang sign
and serve food from Padang, Sumatra.
The options are usually stacked on plates in the window, you choose what you
want and it is served with steamed rice. The most famous Padang speciality
is rendang sapi (spicy beef coconut curry) but there are
always a number of chicken, fish, egg and vegetable options. Padang food is
always halal and you will eat well for Rp 15,000-20,000.
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